Distributed for Intellect Ltd
The Intellect Handbook of Men’s Fashion
Recent years have seen the study of men’s fashion grow from an emerging topic into a vibrant and expanding field, engaging with critical conversations on gender, race, sexuality, disability, colonialism, and globalization. Reflecting this shift, this volume moves beyond traditional narratives by highlighting three key approaches: decentralizing and decolonizing men’s fashion studies, embracing global perspectives, and focusing on multiple, overlapping social identities. Comprising thirty-four chapters by insightful scholars in fashion and dress studies, the collection offers a fresh and forward-looking examination of the field’s development.
Primarily designed for academic audiences, this handbook serves as an ideal textbook or core reading for undergraduate and graduate courses on gender and fashion. At the same time, it appeals to fashion practitioners, curators, cultural critics, and general readers interested in the history, culture, and meaning of men’s fashion and dress.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Chapter 1: Negotiating Masculine Gender with Dress: Moving Beyond the Binary
Andrew Reilly and Jenifer K. McGuire
Chapter 2: Little Boy Blue
Jo Barraclough Paoletti
Chapter 3: Globalized Masculinities in Latin American National Costumes
José Blanco F. and Raúl J Vázquez-López
Chapter 4: Redressing rituals: Writing South African men’s fashion as sites of decolonial praxis
Lesiba Mabitsela and Erica de Greef
Chapter 5: Blurring the Binary: Masculinity in Drag Performers’ Costumes
Olivia Baker and Julie Hillery
Chapter 6: From Schnorrer to Parvenu: Jews, Tailoring and the Performance of Respectability
Jonathan C. Kaplan-Wajselbaum
Chapter 7: Genderless Sizing
Lynn Boorady
Chapter 8: From Circumference to Size: Tailoring the Fat Man in America, 1820-1920
Lauren Downing Peters and Chloe Chapin
Chapter 9: “Dress for the Body You Have”: Revealing the Infallible Realness of Men’s Bodies through Queer Eye
Ashley Morgan
Chapter 10: ‘You Just Go With It - You Slowly Move With It’: Social Performance of Older Male Bodies Through Fashion and Clothing
Ania Sadkowska
Chapter 11: The Subversive Style of André Leon Talley
Jason Cyrus
Chapter 12: Fashion and the Devil’s Railroad: Masculinity, Migration and Modernities in the Brazilian Amazon
Dr Elizabeth Kutesko
Chapter 13: Fresh Out the Box: Sneakers and Shifting Masculinities
Elizabeth Semmelhack
Chapter 14: Border Crossing: Contemporary Russian Fashion Photography and The Queering of Men’s Style
Graham H. Roberts, Paris Nanterre University
Chapter 15: A Fashion Investigation of the Silent Chinese Hipsters
Leren Li
Chapter 16: Haute Headhunter: The Development of a New Traditional Dress for Indigenous Men in North Borneo
Daniel James Cole
Chapter 17: Styling Gay Men in the West Shaun Cole
Chapter 18: Masculinities and Men’s Accessories in Turkey: Differentiations and Intersections of Religion and Political Ideologies Nazli Alimen
Chapter 19: Conspicuous Waist: Making and modifying the eighteenth-century men’s waistcoat
Peter McNeil
Chapter 20: Bottom Up: The Jockstrap as contradictory signifier of male potency and vulnerability
Änne Söll/Christian Wandhoff
Chapter 21: Trousers, Pants, and Hose Jay McCauley Bowstead
Chapter 22: The Scottish Kilt
David Loranger
Chapter 23: The Shirt That Says ‘Aloha’Marcia A. Morgado
Chapter 24: Queer Crip Masculinities: Embodied Dressing/Making and the Reimagining of Disabled Masculinities
Ben Barry and Philippa Nesbitt
Chapter 25: ‘African Menswear Design: Fashion-scapes and Dress Innovations’ Victoria L. Rovine, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
Chapter 26: Encoding Cultural Meaning:Gender Performativity in the Fragrance Space
Miranda Gordon
Chapter 27: Suit Up: Branding White-Collar Masculinity Myles Ethan Lascity
Chapter 28: Body doubles: Men’s Tailoring and the Origins of the Fashion Mannequin Alison Matthews David
Chapter 29: Dress, Style and Masculinities in American Cinema Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas
Chapter 30: Emerging Binaries and Queering Bodies Hannah Liebreich and Sadie Lynch
Chapter 31: Men’s Street Style at Fashion Week as Photographic and Representational Practice
Rebecca Halliday
Chapter 32: Hybrid Dandyism and Construction of Masculinity in Modern Korea:
Ko Hui-dong (1885-1965) and Lee Quede (1913-1965) Kyunghee Pyun, Fashion Institute of Technology
Chapter 33: Online Menswear Communities
Nathaniel Weiner
Chapter 34: Men’s Dress in Popular Romance Novels Jonathan Allan
Notes on Contributors
Index