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Fashion as Masquerade

Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty: Volume 3

Fashion as Masquerade focuses on issues of power, social positioning, ideologies, and practices within the web of relationships between creators, producers, practitioners, and end users of fashion.

Masking has a rich history but it is also a metaphor for fashion itself. Fashion is a mask that constructs or subverts meanings. To construct meanings it needs control over what people can wear, and over the gaze that interprets the meanings of what they wear. Exploring the contemporary meanings of masks, masking, and masquerade, essays here consider masking in its various forms as a conscious or unconscious form of behavior. Masking is revealed as a strategy for reclaiming control over the construction of meanings and creating a space for resistance that is independent of either social prescriptions or the controlling gaze.

Taking as its subject a fascinating area of fashion rarely explored from an academic standpoint, Fashion as Masquerade will be welcomed by scholars of fashion, design, theatre, and culture.

230 pages | 60 halftones | 9 x 9 | © 2014

Culture Studies

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Table of Contents

Fashion and the orders of masking
Efrat Tseëlon
Contributions to theories of masking: Overview of the volume
Laini Burton
First order of masking: Mask
Fashion and fancy in New York: Costume balls of the Gilded Age
Emilia Müller
Second order of masking: Disguise
Working-class women and women ‘working’ class: Literary masquerade in the inter-war years
Jan Goggans
‘Now she’s all hat and ideas’: Fashioning the British Suffrage Movement
Amy L. Montz
Fashionable erotic masquerades: Of brides, gods and vamps in India
Tereza Kuldova
Third order of masking: Masquerade
The nineteenth-century dandy’s heroic renunciation through fashion
Nigel Lezama
The black princess of elegance: The emergence of the female dandy
Senem Yazan
Faking femininity: Masquerade and epic theatre in fashion TV’s lesson
Inna Arzumanova
Nobody’s fool: Power and agency in performing ‘The Blonde’
Laini Burton
‘Forget about them’: The invisible and fashionable Muslim women of Sex and the City 2
Mariam Esseghaier
From The Noticeboard
Book Reports
The Color Revolution, Regina Lee Blaszczyk (2012)
Nordic Fashion Studies, Peter McNeil and Louise Wallenberg (eds) (2012)
Exhibition Reviews
19th Century Shapes: Reminiscence & Reinvention—‘Cristobal Balenciaga: Collectionneur de modes’ and Comme des Garçons: ‘White Drama’
The Elements Words are Made of
Ad-Dress: Thoughts on Garments
Insalaam, Inshalom
From the Exhibition Catalogue
Avec Armes et Bagages: Dans un Mouchoir de Poche
Film Review
Chic Point: Fashion for Israeli Checkpoints, (2003)

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