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Distributed for Intellect Ltd

Fashion and War in Popular Culture

Aside from the occasional nod to epaulets or use of camouflage, war and fashion seem to be strange partners. Not so, argue the contributors to this book, who connect military industrial practices as well as military dress to textile and clothing in new ways. For instance, the book includes a series of commentaries on the impact of military dress in the airline industry, in illustrated wartime comics, and even considers today’s muscled soldier’s body as a new type of uniform. Elsewhere, the impacts of conquest introduce a new set of postcolonial aesthetics; this is because military and colonial regimes disrupted local textile production and garment making. In another chapter, it is argued that textiles and fashion are important because they reflect a core practice, one that bridges textile artists and designers in an expressive, creative, and deeply physical way to matters of cultural significance. And the book concludes by calling the very mode of "military chic" into ethical question.

The premier text to illustrate the impact of war on textiles, bodies, costume, art, and design, Fashion and  War in Popular Culture will be warmly welcomed by scholars of fashion design and theory, historians of fashion, and those interested in theories of warfare and military science.

200 pages | 9 color plates, 20 halftones | 7 x 9 | © 2014

Culture Studies


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Table of Contents

Acknowledgements

Introduction

Contextualizing fashion and war within popular culture

Jennifer Craik

Overview

Denise N. Rall

Section 1: The military in popular culture

1. Representation of female wartime bravery in Australia’s Wanda the War Girl and Jane at War from the UK

Jane Chapman

2. Fashionable fascism: Cinematic images of the Nazi before and after 9/11

Kylee M. Hartman-Warren

3. Branding the muscled male body as military costume

Heather Smith and Richard Gehrmann

Section 2: Fashion and the military

4. In the service of clothes: Else Schiaparelli and the war experience

Annita Boyd

5. The discipline of appearance: Military style and Australian flight hostess uniforms 1930-1964

Prudence Black

6. Models, medals, and the use of military emblems in fashion

Amanda Laugesen

Section 3: Framing youth fashion, textile artworks and postcolonial costume in the context of conflict

7. Battle dressed – clothing the criminal, or the horror of the ‘hoodie’ in Britain

Joanne Turney

8. Dutch wax and display: London and the art of Yinka Shonibare

Davinia Gregory

9. Costume and conquest: Introducing a proximity framework for post-war impacts on textile and fashion

Denise N. Rall

Afterword: The military in contemporary fashion

Denise N. Rall

Contributors

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